From above the Grand Canyon looks… like a big hole. The first time I saw it, I said, “that is a big hole! Well. Let’s keep driving.” Or something like that.
Because the Grand Canyon isn’t exciting from the top. It’s not as interesting, challenging, or awe-inspiring from the top. The only way to experience the Grand Canyon, of the two times I’ve been there at least, is hiking to the bottom.
There are lots of trails in, but we chose the longest one down – the North Kaibob trail. It was something like 7 miles down into the Canyon, and then another 7 miles to the Colorado River. And the north rim is a completely different experience than the south rim.
If I could sum up the difference between the two rims, I’d say:
- The North Rim has tons of wildlife
- The South Rim has a Chase bank
The North Rim is way better in many ways. Its downside is it’s driving distance and added hiking distance. It’s certainly an awesome experience hiking down one side and then up the other. But if I were going to hike up and down the same side, I might actually choose a South Rim trail. And I still loved the Bright Angel Trail, so to say the North Kaibob is better, it doesn’t mean the South trail was a disappointment.
I should try to keep this short, because there’s no way to describe the difference.
The vastness. Just how long it keeps going, when really, you’re only seeing a small part. The layers after layers of rock. The lack of people. The lack of technology.
I’ve been on my computer seemingly all day everyday for years now, because I work 24/7, and I work online. But being in the bottom it was actually nice to think that there is no internet tonight. Surely, there’s a semi important email to answer waiting for me, or an angry email, a question, a post to write, and probably still need to book the next hotel. But nope.
It’s different than a lot of camping we’ve done in that way. If I want internet, I have to hike 8,000 feet up and 9 miles, just to get to the edge of the rim.
Practical tips:
- If you want to get a cabin at Phantom Ranch, which is at the very bottom, you probably have to book a year in advance.
- If you want to camp, there’s a lot more space/flexibility. The downside is actually carrying all that camping gear up hill.
- Spend more than one night inside the Canyon. There are short hikes within the Grand Canyon, and there are a lot of views to enjoy at the bottom.
- Do not miss sunset over the Colorado River. It’s a completely different experience at sunset.
- A duh for anyone who doesn’t get shoes at the thrift store, but having shoes that fit would have been amazing. Trust me, I paid for it.
How hard of hike is it? I’ve done tons of hikes that are 10+ miles in a day, and did a 25 mile day hike last year. This is definitely more strenuous. Partly because the obvious: coming up is really steep. Also, the sun is hot, and you’re carrying all your stuff, and water stops are pretty spread out.
But, you can pace yourself as slow as you want. Seriously. There are multiple campsites along the way. If I did it again, I would almost do multiple stops just to enjoy different parts of the Canyon.
Now, full disclosure, this was a trip planned and booked entirely by my father-in-law. Which means, I don’t know how much the lodge was at the top or bottom, although I booked the hotels for all of us on the way out west, and the night at the Hyatt Regency Albuquerque (for only 5,000 points each room). It also means, that the entire trip was extremely fast paced. We spent one night in the canyon, and the family drove back to Ohio in 2 days from Albuquerque.
Highlights:
- Staying right on the rim
- Sunset at the bottom
- The North Kaibob trial once you’re actually in the Canyon.
Being in the Canyon, you can’t help but stop and “wow” whenever you turn a corner. The entire thing was an unforgettable experience.
Great travel report, advice, and pictures! I’ve camped on the North Rim before, but haven’t made the hike down yet. One day though 🙂
Totally worth it. Although I imagine camping on the rim is an experience of it’s own. We didn’t leave a lot of time (any) for rim gazing.
Great Pics Guys! I haven’t been there since I was younger. I definitely need to go back! Where did ya’ll stay at?
Thanks. Hmm, on the north rim it was some cabin he rented for all of us a ways from the rim. Don’t remember the name.
At the bottom we got dorm beds at Phantom Ranch.
On the southrim we stayed in a room at on of the Bright Angel Lodge sections. That was pretty cool. No view of anything, but amazingly close for the price.
Wow! This popped up in my email while I was breakfasting with my 20something rock-climbing, hiking, gotta-be-outdoors son and we both really enjoyed it. And while I may only enjoy it vicariously, I bet he’ll make it to the bottom someday. Which is not a phrase I typically use when I refer to his future 😉 !
Hahahaha, awesome. He should, it’s quite a hiking adventure. And it’s surprisingly diverse.
I too hope he makes it to the bottom. 😀
Nice! Great timing for me- I’m going there over xmas/new year’s. Figured to see a couple of the big parks in the US (Lake Mead, GC, Joshua Tree) before I split for a year+ and do more like what y’all are doing. I’m stuck with the South Rim it seems b/c of weather that time of year. Prolly still a fair chance for snow anyway. Did you guys stay in those cabin things at the bottom, or camp out? Trying to decide whether I want to mess with a tent or not. The cabins sound fine but expensive. Did you bring food also?
You’re much braver than I am to go in the heart of winter. When I was at the North Rim a few years back (in the middle of July nonetheless), it literally got down to 32 degrees at night. I didn’t even have a tent, so I stuffed my sleeping bag full of as many of the convenience store “hand warmers” as I could get ahold of!
I know the South Rim is much lower and therefore warmer, but I don’t think my Florida-acclimated body could ever handle it in December!
lol, desert nights. And you don’t realize how high the elevation is. Isn’t the north rim like 8k?
I camped out when it got down to freezing in Oman on a solo trip there…will have a better bag and clothes this time too. I’ll be fine.
That was Jebel Shams by the way, which has some more serious hiking routes up the mountain, I met a nice Dutch family and we took an easier route along the canyon rim. Only thing I’d do different is wildcamp there instead of staying at the Jebel Shams Campground (they have rooms if you prefer that), overpriced I think. Actually pretty similar to the GC come to think of it….
We stayed in a dorm at the bottom. Not sure what I’d do if I went back planning it on my own. For more than one person, the dorms are pretty expensive, but availability is better.
And we ate dinner and breakfast at the lodge. The rest was packed food. Although having at least a meal there is great because you can pig out without worrying about rations.
Can’t imagine it with snow. The sun was brutal.